21 Best Mouse Trap Baits That Actually Work

Here is the ultimate list of baits that work to catch mice and rats every single time.

House mice, much like humans, are omnivores. This means that they can eat both plants and meat products. Luckily, this gives us a wide list of the best bait for mouse trap usage. These resilient little creatures will often eat anything they can. They are opportunistic little buggers, which is why it’s so often hard to get rid of them.

What’s the best bait for mouse trap setting? Our full list is below.

Here’s the Ultimate List of the 21 best mouse and rat baits.

  1. Deli meats, hot dog, or any other preserved meats that won’t rot at room temperature
  2. Sugar cubes
  3. Bacon, sausage and other breakfast meats
  4. Chocolate
  5. Cheese (of course!)
  6. Sunflower seeds
  7. Pumpkin Seeds
  8. Mouse pellets (I’m not talking about the toxic kind here, check your local pet store)
  9. Bird Seed
  10. Soft Cheeses
  11. Jelly Beans
  12. Dog food
  13. Cat food
  14. Honey
  15. Maple Syrup
  16. Molasses or brown sugar
  17. Almond butter
  18. Breakfast cereal (the more sugary, the better!)
  19. Gum drops
  20. Cookies (break them up into small crumbs)
  21. Peanut butter

Peanut Butter. It’s number 21 on our list… but it’s definitely number 1 in my book.

PB - STILL Best Bait For Mouse Trap

Here’s why it’s so greatest bait for your kill or live trap.

  • Mice and rats find it irresistibly delicious. I’ve never found a rodent that was not attracted to it.
  • It’s sticky, providing it’s own kind of trapping action.
  • It takes a long time to eat. A mouse will have a tough time just grabbing the bait and running.

 Mice love cheese, right?

The old cliché is mice and cheese, and as you will see on my list, a good soft cheese is a great bait in a pinch. It’s not my favorite, nor does it seem to be that of the mice. Somewhat unintuitively, they are more attracted to high-carb foods (which strangely enough my cat is as well).

When I had the misfortune of one of my first rodent encounters, I was not as well prepared as I am now. I left open boxes of cereal in my pantry, and one day found they had been gnawed into from the sides. I was so horrified! Part of me wanted to check inside for other signs of visitation (I.E. mouse feces), but luckily I did not. That’s probably the reason why I can still eat Cap’N’Crunch to this day.

There were some other items in that pantry that they could have gone for, including a preserved cheese spread and a bag of beef jerky. But instead, they went straight for the cereal, which reinforces the fact that the folks at Orkin later told me. That was far from my last encounter with mice, but I learned from then on to use airtight, Tupperware style boxes to stash my beloved breakfast foods.

What do mice really need nutritionally? Here’s what the science says.

The old snatch ‘n’ grab.

If you’re dealing with an infestation, and especially if you’ve dealt with more than one, there’s a very good possibility that you’ve dealt with this infuriating phenomenon.

Here’s the good news, it’s more often a problem of improper baiting, than the type of bait itself. Check out our main page select a good rodent trap that will help you avoid the frustrations of a rodent food heist.

Additional tips:

If possible, do not handle bait with your bare hands. Even though you can’t see it, your body is contently producing natural oils and scents, which a sensitive rodent nose can easily pick up. If you’ve ever wondered why mice don’t seem to be taking your bait, there is a good chance that they moved on after sensing danger.

What kind of bait should I use for a mouse trap?

In my years of helping people with their mice and rat problems, I have gone through and reviewed tons of different traps, repellents and exclusion solutions.

If you haven’t already, I would highly recommend that you check out my frequently updated master guide to the latest and greatest mouse traps.

Selecting the best rodent bait for the job often depends on the type of trap (snap, electric, humane, etc…) you are using. However, you no longer have to worry because any of the 21 types of bait on our master list will serve as a powerful attractant for mice and rats.

If you’re using a poison, the bait is already built in.

Rodenticides (rat poisons) serve two synergistic functions, that come together and eliminate pests.

  1. They bait mice into eating them with a pleasant taste
  2. They slowly or quickly work to poison and kill the mouse.

Mice will eat nearly everything!

This is part of the problem of why it is so hard to get rid of an infestation in your home. Rodents are naturally baited by any food that is stored in your home. If you have any idea of what particular food source that they are getting into, that might just be the best mouse bait for your trap.

Have you ever heard of a mouse outsmarting a mouse trap?

It happens more often than you would guess. Rats and mice and all of their furry cousins are smart little creatures. They often have an inexplicable ability to sense danger.

They are so smart that they will often

  • Not take the bait at all, and continue to dine on other food sources in your house.
  • Manage to grab the bait and run. Often in the case of snap traps, they wont even trigger the device to go off. This can be prevented by choosing (the right trap), and by properly baiting it.

 

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